Revival Through Fashion (Aimoriyama)

For Kurume kasuri weavers—especially those engaged in indigo dyeing—water is their lifeline. Large amounts of water are required for both dyeing and washing, and hard water containing minerals such as iron and calcium can prevent proper color development. For this reason, most workshops still rely on local sources of soft water, such as well water or river water.

Founded in 1858 (Ansei 5), Aimoriyama is the oldest existing Kurume kasuri weaving house. Located in Hirokawa Town, where many workshops remain, it draws its water from the Hirokawa River, as its name suggests, and has continued traditional indigo dyeing using natural lye fermentation for six generations. The workshop also produces Kurume kasuri designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan, which requires hand-tying and hand weaving, and is particularly known for its finely detailed small patterns such as kagasuri and jujigasuri.

In June 2023, the workshop suffered devastating damage from the record-breaking Northern Kyushu floods. More than 50 indigo vats were submerged in muddy water along with the dye, with flood levels reaching up to 90 cm above the floor in some areas. Machines for winding yarn were also flooded, and parts of the building were left half-destroyed. It was truly a crisis of survival.

In the face of this disaster, the sixth-generation successors—brothers Koichi Moriyama and Yoshinobu Moriyama—rose to the challenge. Koichi had been involved in fashion and event planning, while Yoshinobu had worked in food and research until their mid-twenties. Drawn back by a shared desire to carry on the family business, they had returned just before the disaster struck.

The road to reconstruction was far from easy. Many supporters came to help remove mud and debris, and neighboring workshops provided dyeing facilities so they could continue preparing for exhibitions scheduled after the disaster. As they struggled to rebuild, the design and interior of the new workshop came to reflect the brothers’ vision and sensibility, unintentionally becoming a space that embodies a future-oriented model for Kurume kasuri.

The new workshop was completed in June 2025, exactly two years after the disaster. As much as possible, the beams of the old workshop were preserved, and fragments of indigo vats broken in the flood were embedded into the polished floor of the dyeing area. “This is our root,” the sixth generation says—revealing a stance that is deeply grounded in place while remaining open to new sensibilities.

Koichi has a strong interest in fashion history, including street and punk culture, and believes that even traditional kasuri patterns can be reinterpreted through new perspectives and contexts. In addition to collaborations with brands such as 45R and BEAMS, he has begun developing original clothing using kasuri fabrics.

“I want to create a place like a town where food, clothing, and shelter come together.” In response to this vision, his younger brother Yoshinobu—who has a research-oriented mindset—has begun exploring spice curry, presenting it at events. In the future, they aim to create not just a dyeing and weaving workshop, but a space with a shop and food offerings—a kind of third place where people can gather.

To achieve this, their goals are clear: to restore indigo dyeing from scratch after the disaster, and to faithfully inherit the pattern-making techniques—such as tying and weaving—passed down from their grandfather (fourth generation) and father (fifth generation). Perhaps it is precisely these two brothers who can realize a workshop that is at once the most traditional and the most innovative.